This is the first board I've made for a long while, as I've just been too busy working on the film. So it was good to get my hands working again.
I was holidaying on the mid north coast & my mate Tom Wegener generously sent me a blank & a couple of templates down.
Just working that timber all morning out in my mate's shed felt like therapy. It soothed my very soul. And it was incredible to make a board in a day & ride it that same afternoon.
I first rode this 6'8" alaia at a long lined up pointbreak. About four or five rides into that session, I got one of the best waves of my life. I can't begin to describe the sense of speed & trim & enchantment. I was blessed by a week of swell & I surfed myself silly on this board.
Stoked is too small a word to describe the joy I have found sliding on the sea with this homemade wavecraft. At the moment, it's all I'm interested in riding. I feel like a little kid again.
While I was away my lovely friend Marina whipped up a handmade boardbag. I reckon it's awesome. Thanks Rina!
I called her 'Aukai', which is Hawai'ian for 'Seafarer'.
Thanks, Tom, for the blank & the inspiration.
Posted by Nathan Oldfield