D.I.Y.



This is the first board I've made for a long while, as I've just been too busy working on the film. So it was good to get my hands working again.

I was holidaying on the mid north coast & my mate Tom Wegener generously sent me a blank & a couple of templates down.

Just working that timber all morning out in my mate's shed felt like therapy. It soothed my very soul. And it was incredible to make a board in a day & ride it that same afternoon.



I first rode this 6'8" alaia at a long lined up pointbreak. About four or five rides into that session, I got one of the best waves of my life. I can't begin to describe the sense of speed & trim & enchantment. I was blessed by a week of swell & I surfed myself silly on this board.

Stoked is too small a word to describe the joy I have found sliding on the sea with this homemade wavecraft. At the moment, it's all I'm interested in riding. I feel like a little kid again.

While I was away my lovely friend Marina whipped up a handmade boardbag. I reckon it's awesome. Thanks Rina!





I called her 'Aukai', which is Hawai'ian for 'Seafarer'.





Thanks, Tom, for the blank & the inspiration.

1 comment:

  1. Looks like a fun one! :) and thanks for the nice comment. . . I'm sorry to hear about your daughter also. It's such a bummer loosing someone you really love but you gotta just be the best you can be despite what happens in life. Also, I havn't seen seaworthy yet but the trailor looks really cool! Can't wait!

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