The La La Society via Mike McCarthy

Mike McCarthy, recording for his album 'The Harrowing Account Of John William Tate', at Pete's farm, Winter 2008.

My mate Mike McCarthy is travelling in California at the moment, sharing his journey via his blog ( & the odd email. He's just posted up his version of a song that Tom Wegener wrote. It's called the 'La La Society' & is downloadable for free at the following link:

I might be biased, but I reckon it's pretty special. Hearing Tom sing it gently & earnestly late at night after a good meal & a beer or two is pretty special too. Enjoy.

(And if you happen to see Mike wandering by, give him a meal & take him surfing; you may well be rewarded with a private gig that will touch your heart & stroke your soul. Yep, he's that good).


Jack Lynch, stroking the lip while rubbing his Valla log across the wall of his local.

DIY Alaia Classes


Stoke is where you find it. Here's my good mate Mac Rae (who's also affectionately known as Macdawg, Macbook, V-Brother & Tripnips, among other things) finding his joy via a reverse heels kick five thingy on his beloved z-flex cruisemobile. If you're reading this, Trips, please give my love to your lovely family, & keep putting away the coin for that new Valla fish.


Tom Woods

Just caught up with photographer Tom Woods again recently on my travels. He continues to create wonderful imagery. Here's a taste:

You can visit his website at Or better still, join his weekly newsletter. I did, & it's always a pleasure to have his photos flow through my inbox. Here's the linkageness:

I reckon Tom should start a blog & I told him so. He has an eye.


Bodysurf #3

My mate Ryan Heywood's online zine continues to gather happy momentum. Here's a great shot from Bodysurf #3 by Chad Waldron of Heydon Bunting throwing himself over a ledge not too far from my house.

Heydon is a another good mate of mine. He plays an important part in my film Seaworthy. Anyone who knows this particular stretch of reef would be impressed that Heydon is willing to take it on with just a pair of swimfins; but anyone who really knows Heydon wouldn't be especially surprised. He craves a deeply involved experience of surfing.


Here's my friend Matt Chojnacki, enjoying a pure trimline up on a northern point a week or so back. It's always a pleasure to watch Matty surf. His waveriding reflects an understanding of clean, classic style. His approach is so refined & elegant that it needs to take place in long lined-up point waves to truly shine: he is a rare surfer that can complete a long wave, from paddle in to kick out, without wobbles or uncertainty or haste or self-consciousness. Matt knows how to dance.


Last Wave

Such good, clean joy to catch that last slippery slider up onto the sand in the dusk's final light, with the salt air all star kissed & crisp & the soul deeply grateful & content.

Oh Ma The Sea Is Rising

Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. What an impossibly beautiful song. It reminds me of how deeply I do love the sea.

One Step At A Time

A recent photo of Sage Joske handshaping. As he continues to refine a range of now proven designs, Sage is gathering an increasingly appreciative clientele. Count me in. I am more than happy to be aboard.


Heading north for a couple of weeks tomorrow morning to have family/surf/shoot/daydream time, so I'll be offline for a little bit. Looking forward to a little less busyness, & a whole lot more saltwater & sunlight. Waxed my new log last night & will christen her at a favourite pointbreak tomorrow afternoon. Yeeeewwwwwwww!


"I am happy to report that in the war between reality and romance, reality is not the stronger." John Steinbeck, from 'Travels With Charley'

The Road

The Road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow, if I can,
Pursuing it with eager feet,
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet.
And whither then? I cannot say.

Bilbo Baggins, The Fellowship Of The Ring, J.R.R. Tolkien


I'm regularly inspired by the work of this man. He's the real deal.

Photo: Kyle Lightner

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NJ Strider, log inspector, gave my new board a serious going over:

Verdict: "I like it Dad. It's all blue & shiny."