Detail of Tom Wegener's sixteen foot toothpick handmade by Bill Wallace, one of the revered fathers of the long line of Australian surfboard craftsmen. I rode this board one late afternoon at Tea Tree with Tom a few years ago, & it was a tremendous privilege & true joy to feel the draw of its finless heavily convex hull as it carried across the tiny peelers into the sunset. It was a goosebump afternoon: the light all thick & golden, the sea an old friend gifting clean crisp rollers, the board a living breathing thing moving beneath me, & all that energy travelling through the soles of my my feet & into my heart. Joy & awe. Sure, it was difficult to ride; but sometimes that's precisely the point.
Posted by Nathan Oldfield