This is pure inspiration.
This short reminds me of a favourite quote from Lauryn Hill: "That's what praising God is all about, it's doing your passion, fulfilling your passion. You know, that's how we are are thankful, that's how we say we appreciate the opportunity to be alive."
I'm always touched by people pursuing the things that stir their hearts. What else in this short life is so worthy?
In a couple of hours I'm heading off to hospital to finally have my case of surfer's ear dealt with. Surgery. My doctor will be drilling a hole into my head, clearing my ear canal of exostosis. A quarter of a century's worth of surfing has finally caught up with me. As of today it's six or eight or more weeks out of the water. The longest drought by far in my surfing life. I'm not quite sure how I will begin to cope.