Hands On The Rails

Alex Knost, envisioning.

I'm happy to be corrected, but I think it was Dane Kealoha who, when asked what was his favourite thing in surfing, replied that it was when his hands were on the rails; meaning that instant of anticipation when you're looking down the line & about to leap to your feet. I agree that it's one of a surfing life's most special moments: all that thinking, planning, waiting, paddling, dreaming & searching distilled in a split second of pure, simple, joyful expectation.

I've been out of the sea with a post-op ear for forty-six days now. I've had a lot of time to think about these kind of hands-on-the-rails moments. Just yesterday, my doctor finally gave me the green light to go surfing. Stoked.

This weekend I'm heading north with family & friends for a couple of weeks of reacquainting myself with saltwater, & sampling some cobblestone points. Blog entries may be few & far between. As always, thanks for dropping by this little bit of cyberspace to have a Look & Sea.

Tuna / Bluegill

Tom sent me this clip: good times exploring the possibilities on the new tuna models. Yew!

And Jon's bluegills look like a bunch of fun too:

Jon Wegener All Yew from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.


My mate & surfboard restoration alchemist Dave Platt, pigment laminating the belly of an over forty year old Gordon Woods egg. Dave's getting pretty excited about riding this one, & I'm looking forward to having a go too.

Men of Men

Here's my Dad & Uncle (also my godfather) having a bit of fun at our local. Since I've been out of the water with my post-op ear, I decided to use the opportunity to go watch them slide the other day, & to grab a few photos. So here they are: Shane & Rhett, identical twins in their late fifties, both grandfathers, playing in the sea on their self-made surfboards. So much of what I understand about so many significant things in life - about being a husband, a parent, a Christian, a surfer, a shaper, a dreamer, a maker - I owe to these two wonderful mentors. Watching them surf together makes me a very proud son & nephew, & very grateful for the heritage of these men of men.


My mate Kerry Down likes riding a bunch of boards, messing around with cameras & chasing hollow slabs at reefies near & far. Kerry's one of the most tubed people I know. Here he is finding another happy place at a local rock ledge:

Kerry also has a blog running up at The Black & White Life.

Copa del Mundo

A month of the beautiful game. Happiness. Go Australia! Viva Espana!


Pretty cool to see this emerging surf label introducing a world first precedent: on page traceability for all products, with an emphasis on organic, ethically made, sustainable clothing. More here. Reckon it sets a nice high bar for the rest of the surf industry.


Nathan Adams Introduction from Almond Surfboards on Vimeo.

Love this happy short by Cameron Oden for Almond featuring the fun, original slipperyisms of Nathan Adams.

Noah & the Whale/First Days Of Spring

I've been infatuated with Noah & the Whale's seminal second album, 'The First Days Of Spring', since its release last year. I've just now watched the film. I reckon it beautifully complements the album's achingly haunting texture & narrative. Both film & album are a wonderful, terrible, tender journey.

The First Days of Spring - A Film By Noah And The Whale from charlie fink on Vimeo.