Speed Run



I had the good fortune of watching Wayne Bartholomew take apart a Queensland pointbreak a few months back & it was pure inspiration.

Rabbit turns fifty-six this year, which is exactly twenty years older than I am. This day he was catching his fair share of waves despite a crowded lineup, surfing smooth & fast & covering a lot of ground, completing waves way down the length of the cove & then overtaking surfers half his age as he sprinted back to the rockoff spot at the tip of the point.

Simply put, Rabs was frothing as hard as a grommet & it warmed the cockles of my surfer's heart to witness it all unfolding: a grown man, silver haired in his later years, overflowing with joy & vitality & desire, obviously as much in love with surfing as he ever has been.

It reminded me of what the narrator in Tim Winton's 'Breath' thought about surfing: "How strange it was to see men doing something beautiful. Something pointless and elegant."

How strange, how simple, how good. I am grateful to share the lineup with elders who can still remind us of that most primary lesson: a surfing life is pure gift.

5 comments:

  1. Great post Nathan... lovin your stuff

    ReplyDelete
  2. Good oh Nathan. I'm on the way to share with you!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks for the feedback mates. Good to hear others feel the same way.

    ReplyDelete
  4. so stoked on this - rabbit is pure joy to surf with!! loving your updates nathan. x chris www.atdusk.com.au

    ReplyDelete