
Alex Knost, envisioning.
I'm happy to be corrected, but I think it was Dane Kealoha who, when asked what was his favourite thing in surfing, replied that it was when his hands were on the rails; meaning that instant of anticipation when you're looking down the line & about to leap to your feet. I agree that it's one of a surfing life's most special moments: all that thinking, planning, waiting, paddling, dreaming & searching distilled in a split second of pure, simple, joyful expectation.
I've been out of the sea with a post-op ear for forty-six days now. I've had a lot of time to think about these kind of hands-on-the-rails moments. Just yesterday, my doctor finally gave me the green light to go surfing. Stoked.
This weekend I'm heading north with family & friends for a couple of weeks of reacquainting myself with saltwater, & sampling some cobblestone points. Blog entries may be few & far between. As always, thanks for dropping by this little bit of cyberspace to have a Look & Sea.









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