
One of my favourite things to do in surfing is just to touch the water, to feel all that liquid silk playing beneath my fingertips. Here's me, riding a twelve footer shaped by Paul Joske. Achieving pure trim on this surfboard & dragging my hand in the lip is one of the most supreme pleasures in my simple life. This beautiful twelve footer is a lifetime surfboard that I treasure deeply. Thanks to my friend Ben Conquest for this photo. Ben has a rad blog here.












