Feliz Año Nuevo

My good friend Marina has developed a beautiful family tradition where, before we begin the evening meal, we go around the table & every one present has the opportunity to share what they're grateful for about the day. Someone might say "The surf" or "Ice-cream" or "My friends". It's a simple thing, but it's a wonderful way to practise thankfulness. I like gratitude because it keeps you humble & helps keep things in perspective.

I was thinking about the year that's nearly finished & reflecting on what I was thankful for about 2011. There's so many things, really: new friends, old friends, a journey to homeland, Basque brothers & sisters, gifts, sunrises, waves, fresh air, freedom, employment, food on the table, shelter, beauty, art, love.

But at the top of the list there's always family. I was reminded of this yesterday at sunset when my wife & I were walking off the beach with these three, who decided to carry our new Tom Wegener bellyboard on their heads, just like their Dad was carrying his log. It looks like a staged family photo but it was actually a moment of spontaneous family team work captured quickly on my phone. Thanks, creator, for the gift of my children & their lovely mum, my best mate. They are my heart's truest treasures & I am truly grateful.

Happy new year mates. As always, thanks to all of you who drop in to this small part of the interwebbery to have a Look & Sea.

Hiru Anaiak

Three Basque brothers in home waters: Axel redirecting & Txox & Belar looking on. How I wish I could go for a surf with these three right now.


Belinda Baggs, as smooth & delicate & as graceful as ever. Such a pleasure to shoot with her again recently for my upcoming film.

Digital Aloha

If you appreciate watching wonderful shorts online like this, please help Korduroy TV by clicking here & pledging a few dollars to support independent artists in surfing. Thank you!

Better Things

Blog posts have been a bit few & far between lately as I've been busy doing better things, namely beach time with my family & friends. Here's my Noa & I, sharing trim on our twelve footer shaped by Paul Joske. We have got so many loooong ones together this week. So stoked. So grateful. Photo by these good peeps.


Cy, playing last Autumn on the same sand bottomed pointbreak that I'm visiting this week. So good to get some long slides under my feet. Joy.


Those who live by the sea can hardly form a single thought of which the sea would not be part. Hermann Broch

The Dust Of Grief

The second day of summer. It's hard to believe six years have passed since we lost our Willow. I'm feeling very fragile today, like if I tripped over I might shatter into a thousand shards. There's even part of me that could desire such oblivion.


I have a selection of limited edition numbered prints available for sale at Adrift Surf Shop & The Glass Onion Society if you're keen to take a peek. They're both rad establishments & I'm stoked to be on board with them.

Ancient Curves

I just finished making this traditional 8'10" alaia from a single slab of cedar. It was a deep pleasure & therapy to work with such beautiful timber. I get goosebumps just thinking about getting these ancient curves running across a wave. Thanks to Paul & Sage Joske for the inspiration, & my little Noa for the shots.

Manufacturing Stoke

This thought-provoking independent documentary on sustainability in surfing is now available via The Surf Network. More info here.


Ion Eizaguirre, Zarautz, Basque Country. Ion's behind a rad project called Gastrologging. More here.

El Mar, Mi Alma / Australian Tour

If you live in Australia, this independent surf film is coming to a town near you. I'm really looking forward to checking it out next week at my local theatre.

22 Nov- Surfers Paradise - Arts Centre Gold Coast - 7:30 pm - ($18)
23 Nov - Sawtell - Sawtell First Avenue Cinema - 7:30 pm - ($15)
29 Nov - Avoca - Avoca Beach Picture Theatre - 7:30 pm - ($16.50)
30 Nov - Manly - Manly Cinemas - 8:30 pm - ($18)
1 Dec - Paddington - Chauvel Cinema - 8pm - ($18)
2 Dec - Bulli - Heritage Hotel - 8 pm - ($17)
9 Dec - Huskisson - Huskisson Pictures - 8 pm - ($12)
10 Dec - Ulludulla - Arcadia Cinemas - 8 pm - ($12)
14 Jan - Torquay - Surf World Museum - 8 pm - ($15)
19 Jan - Adelaide- Mercury Cinema - 7:30 pm - ($18)
23 Jan - Melbourne - ACMI - 7:30 pm - ($18)

Tickets available at the door or online here.

More info on their website and facebook page.


There's an 8'10" alaia hidden somewhere in that old slab of cedar. I'm looking forward to finding it.


Collecting footage for my next film a few months ago on market day in Gernika, with my firstborn, Noa. My great grandmother was killed here in 1937, when Franco's Nationalists deliberately chose the busy market day to bomb the quiet, rural village. For lots of reasons, revisiting Gernika with my little family was a poignant moment. Photo by my dear brother Xabi.

Hey Ho Let's Go Surfing

Here's a new short I produced for my friends at The Critical Slide Society:

Please feel free to share it on the interwebs with your friends. As always, thanks for watching.


Sage Joske, fine tuning the rails of a sleek log for Jack Lynch. This is always my favourite part of shaping, the final turning of the straight edges with a screen. All of a sudden, as if by magic, the lines disappear & are replaced by curves. It's as if the blank is instantly transformed into a surfboard before your eyes, & you start to imagine how water might wrap & hold & caress those curves. For me, it's a moment to savour.

Foam Symmetry Magazine Launch

Foam Symmetry Magazine is having a launch on December 1st at The Sugarmill. See you there.

Bonzer 5

UK filmmaker Lee Evans sent through this wonderful excerpt from his film 'Harmony Lane'. It really reminded me of how much I really need a Bonzer in my life.

Jai Lee / Rough Cut

A rough cut from Jai Lee's upcoming autobiographical film. Nasal radness.


Alex Knost, framegrab my new film. I'm stoked to have Alex in my next movie, as he's featured in my previous two & it's been special to capture some of his journey over the last decade. I'm really happy with this edit: Al chose the music, the waves are crazy good, & of course his surfing is mind-bendingly-rad. Hopefully, it will be available for your viewing pleasure by this time next year.

Missing Person

You might remember I made a little low-fi live clip for this song, 'Missing Person', by my old mate Mike McCarthy late last year. Now he has just released an official music video for the song, produced by Frederic Dickerson on location in Alaska.

You can download 'Missing Person' as well as Mike's new single 'In Ages' here. Mike has a new album, 'The Lion's Share', coming out next year. More info at mikemccarthy.com.au

Kobe and the Sea

My friend Johnny Abegg just made this beautiful short.

'Kobe and the Sea' is a story about renowned Chef Ben Shewry and his son Kobe, as they share the wonderful bond of father and son, with an emphasis on the over-fishing of Abalone.

Txerri Txuria

Just finished making myself a new 9'6" log. She's called Txerri Txuria, which is Basque for 'white pig'.

Can't wait to introduce her to the sea. Goosebumps. Yew!


Our life is frittered away by detail. Simplify, simplify. Henry David Thoreau

Surf City

My mates Ryan Heywood & Luke Taaffe are having an exhibition entitled 'Surf City' opening this Friday night at The National Grid Gallery in Brookvale, Sydney. Details here.

Johnny Abegg

I had the good opportunity to catch up with Johnny Abegg last week to collect some footage for my new film. We didn't exactly score epic waves but we did get to savour some good moments of mateship over a campfire, a few cold pale ales & my beautiful wife's beautiful homecooked meals. Sometimes, really, waves don't matter.


I have some mates who are involved in a voyage following the migration of Californian Whales down the west coast, in order to raise awareness of the current realities impacting these & other cetaceans & also to spread the word about the coastal environmental issues that impact us all. Everyday, they are posting updates here & recording songs that you can download here. Personally, I'm inspired by their passion & commitment & endeavour & creativity. Please drop in & be moved by beautiful human beings doing beautiful things. I am.


Mikel Ugalde, floating in the last light of a summer evening in Zarautz.


Cyrus put together a sweet little short about old mate Heywood:


Eric Maurus, throwing down a loooong drawn out bottom turn in front of his buddy Clovis Donizetti at a little spot in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. If you put your ear close to this photo, you can hear Clovis hooting. I love sharing moments like these with good mates in the sea.


Inigo Belartieta Lasa, simple happy trimmery in the Bay of Biscay.

Art Park / Nathaniel Russell

Art Park is pleased to launch its new gallery featuring the work of Nathaniel Russell. Nathaniel is the current Art Park/Atlantic Artist in Residence. Exhibition opens 6pm, Friday 23 September, 2011. 5/11 Banksia Drive, Byron Bay.