So good to have this vibrant lady as my new friend. One of surfing's most special gifts is the people you meet in the sea.

Keep A Breast Non Toxic Revolution - 'Heart and Soul' with Leah Dawson from Keep A Breast Foundation on Vimeo.

Minds In The Water

The Australian Premiere of Justin Krumb's film is in Byron Bay this Saturday, the 30th of April, at the beautiful Byron Bay Community Centre. Tickets are available through www.byroncentre.com.au. Try watch!


So good to finally meet you in the flesh, my friend.


The wonderfully elegant sliding of Lauren Hill. Intrinsically, surfing is dance, & few dance as gracefully as this lady. Lauren is a special human being & it was my deep pleasure to spend a space in time with her recently. It means a lot to me have such beautiful, generous, humble surfers in my next film.

A Perfect Act

A Portrait of Christ from Jeremy Cowart on Vimeo.

A man who was completely innocent, offered himself as a sacrifice for the good of others, including his enemies, and became the ransom of the world. It was a perfect act. Mahatma Gandhi

Mr Percival

'Everyone knows that birds like Mr Percival never truly die.' Colin Thiele, from Storm Boy.

Freedom to Breathe

Another framegrab from my next film: the clean sculptural beauty of a pandanus tree. These trees cling to our beloved points up north & I'm always appreciative of their angular form & ruggedness & endurance. They have a kind of grand symbolism in the small personal landscape of my soul; I associate them with clear warm water & perfectly stacked ribs of shining powdery sandbanks.

I had the lovely good opportunity this week to visit such a place to do some filming & to connect with friends old & new. In between, I managed to partake in riding some long waves at one of my favourite places. It was a good, simple journey & I was full of thankfulness. On the drive home today I was thinking about Alexander Solzhenitsyn's seminal poem Freedom to Breathe:

A shower fell in the night and now dark clouds drift across the sky, occasionally sprinkling a fine film of rain.

I stand under an apple tree in blossom and I breathe. Not only the apple tree but the grass round it glistens with moisture; words cannot describe the sweet fragrance that pervades the air. I inhale as deeply as I can, and the aroma invades my whole being; I breathe with my eyes open, I breathe with my eyes closed - I cannot say which gives me the greater pleasure.

This, I believe, is the single most precious freedom that prison takes away from us: the freedom to breathe freely, as I now can. No food on earth, no wine, not even a woman's kiss is sweeter to me than this air steeped in the fragrance of flowers, of moisture and freshness.

No matter that this is only a tiny garden, hemmed in by five-story houses like cages in a zoo. I cease to hear the motorcycles backfiring, radios whining, the burble of loudspeakers. As long as there is fresh air to breathe under an apple tree after a shower, we may survive a little longer.

Sure, I know Solzhenitsyn's circumstances were vastly removed from my own experience this week, but his intrinsic expression of gratitude resonated with me as I played upon that pandanus pointbreak, dodging the crowds & surf schools & rain squalls.

Humble thanks to you, Maker of trees, pointbreaks, poems & people; friendships, hopes & many other richly wonderful things. Always, Lord, deepest thankfulness for the gift of fresh air to breathe & the wide wild sea to adventure in.


My old mate, Macauley. Used to carry him on my shoulders when he was a little grom, now he likes to ride all my surfboards & borrow my wetsuits, and he leaves junk all through my car: shoes, skateboards, bowls of cereal, boardshorts. He is a living tribute to the wildly generous goodness of his parents, who are my dearest friends, too. Love ya Macca.

Lumber Wizard

Tom Wegener, with a few wood logs & a malibu chip replica. You have to see these boards up close to truly appreciate their pure craftsmanship & functional beauty. Surfboards for a lifetime.


Tom Wegener, putting his beloved paulownia-fuelled-super-compost to good use: growing vegetables from seed for his family.

Happy Days At Home

Good times at home at one of my favourite places. Photo by my cousin & cobber, Josepe, who has a little blog going on here. I'm riding a little 5'8" quad fish by Sage Joske & I highly recommend that you get one!