Stillbirth & Surfing

For those of you who've seen Seaworthy, this is probably a bit redundant as it's a direct excerpt from the film. But I decided to put my story of losing Willow & making Noelani online for a non-surfing audience. The film & the blurb I wrote on Vimeo are below.

Mark Twain said that there aren’t enough words in all the languages in the world to express the sorrow of losing a child. This is a short film I produced while grieving for my daughter, Willow, who was stillborn.

This short actually forms the centrepiece of a feature length surf film I made, called Seaworthy. Since the film’s release, I have received many heartfelt words of sympathy & encouragement. There have been scores of letters & emails from surfers from all over the world that have been sensitive & authentic & moving. I have been especially touched by the messages from those who have travelled their own grief journeys. I am awed & humbled that my work somehow resonated with others’ broken hearts.

A common theme echoed among the beautiful feedback I’ve received is that the story deserves a wider audience. Surf films, by definition, appeal to only a limited demographic, & the kind of surf films I make are left-of-centre even within surfing circles. So I decided to post this online, in the hope that it may reach a few others, especially those who may be living with loss & longing.

All of us experience & express grief in varied ways, which is a good thing since we’re all different. Because I’m a surfer, this is how I gave expression to my experience of bereavement.

Thanks for taking the time to watch.

Get A Roundtoit!

Old mates Tom & Finley Wegener are putting together a low-fi, DIY webisode series for their website. Here's the first:

Fiesta de San Fermín

Last month I had the special opportunity to witness the running of the bulls in Pamplona. Deep thanks to my brother Mikel for organising it all. Here's a snap of Mike & I, followed by a few moments from this craziest of festivals.

The things that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. Everything became quite unreal finally and it seemed as though nothing could have any consequences. It seemed out of place to think of consequences during the fiesta. Ernest Hemingway, from 'The Sun Also Rises.'

Bruce Brown, Part One

This is such a beautifully crafted short directed by Chris Malloy, featuring Bruce Brown & his memories of that most seminal of surf films, The Endless Summer. For me, it's a pure joy to watch my hero describe his lifetime work. The Endless Summer had a huge impact on me when I was a little kid. Like a stone thrown into the still pond of my soul over thirty years ago, its ripples still reverberate for me both as a surfer & filmmaker. I think it's still the greatest surf film of all time.

La Mar

Squid fisherman, Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Euskal Herria.

He always thought of the sea as la mar which is what people call her in Spanish when they love her. Sometimes those who love her say bad things of her but they are always said as though she were a woman. Some of the younger fishermen, those who used buoys as floats for their lines and had motorboats, bought when the shark livers had brought much money, spoke of her as el mar which is masculine. They spoke of her as a contestant or a place or even an enemy. But the old man always thought of her as feminine and as something that gave or withheld great favours, and if she did wild or wicked things it was because she could not help them. The moon affects her as it does a woman, he thought. Ernest Hemingway, from 'The Old Man & The Sea'.


Margaux Arramon-Tucoo, happily home in La Côte des Basques. Margaux is a beautiful, gentle, unassuming, softly-spoken soul who makes gorgeous art. Seek it here.

Innersection/Dave Rastovich

My mates Mick Waters & Dave Rastovich have put together a special entry for Innersection here. I reckon it's a welcome breath of fresh air for Innersection. So good to see completed waves & man turns & a surfer who can master a variety of surfcraft. Please vote for it if you're keen.


Rudy & I, frères de la mer. Home at last Rudy! I hope you're savouring your French summer mate. Photo: Eliza Oldfield

Thirty Thousand

Two Aussie surfers travelled 30, 000 kilometres down the west coast of Africa from Casablanca to Cape Town. Their story is told in this film:

'Thirty Thousand' is showing this weekend in Manly. Seek tickets here.

Travel Snaps

Travel snaps from the Basque Country, Spain & France.

Under The Sun/World Premiere Online

My friend Cyrus is finally releasing his epic 16mm film 'Under The Sun' in three days time via The Surf Network. Pre-order your ticket here & help support DIY, independent surf filmmaking.