Feliz Año Nuevo

My good friend Marina has developed a beautiful family tradition where, before we begin the evening meal, we go around the table & every one present has the opportunity to share what they're grateful for about the day. Someone might say "The surf" or "Ice-cream" or "My friends". It's a simple thing, but it's a wonderful way to practise thankfulness. I like gratitude because it keeps you humble & helps keep things in perspective.

I was thinking about the year that's nearly finished & reflecting on what I was thankful for about 2011. There's so many things, really: new friends, old friends, a journey to homeland, Basque brothers & sisters, gifts, sunrises, waves, fresh air, freedom, employment, food on the table, shelter, beauty, art, love.

But at the top of the list there's always family. I was reminded of this yesterday at sunset when my wife & I were walking off the beach with these three, who decided to carry our new Tom Wegener bellyboard on their heads, just like their Dad was carrying his log. It looks like a staged family photo but it was actually a moment of spontaneous family team work captured quickly on my phone. Thanks, creator, for the gift of my children & their lovely mum, my best mate. They are my heart's truest treasures & I am truly grateful.

Happy new year mates. As always, thanks to all of you who drop in to this small part of the interwebbery to have a Look & Sea.

Hiru Anaiak

Three Basque brothers in home waters: Axel redirecting & Txox & Belar looking on. How I wish I could go for a surf with these three right now.


Belinda Baggs, as smooth & delicate & as graceful as ever. Such a pleasure to shoot with her again recently for my upcoming film.

Digital Aloha

If you appreciate watching wonderful shorts online like this, please help Korduroy TV by clicking here & pledging a few dollars to support independent artists in surfing. Thank you!

Better Things

Blog posts have been a bit few & far between lately as I've been busy doing better things, namely beach time with my family & friends. Here's my Noa & I, sharing trim on our twelve footer shaped by Paul Joske. We have got so many loooong ones together this week. So stoked. So grateful. Photo by these good peeps.


Cy, playing last Autumn on the same sand bottomed pointbreak that I'm visiting this week. So good to get some long slides under my feet. Joy.


Those who live by the sea can hardly form a single thought of which the sea would not be part. Hermann Broch

The Dust Of Grief

The second day of summer. It's hard to believe six years have passed since we lost our Willow. I'm feeling very fragile today, like if I tripped over I might shatter into a thousand shards. There's even part of me that could desire such oblivion.