Saying thank you is more than good manners. It is good spirituality. Alfred Painter
Chris Del Moro, expressing gratitude.


One of the true gifts of a surfing life is the friendships you form in the sea.

White Horses

'White Horses' is a new premium surfing magazine released quarterly. It's a top shelf publication with outstanding production values. I'm stoked and honoured to have some of my words & photographs included in the launch issue, which is just arriving at newsagents now. Take a peek here.

South West Marine Debris Cleanup

Some good mates of mine were involved in this project recently in South West Tasmania. It's amazing to see that even in such a remote part of the planet, the residue of the modern world is encroaching. More information about the project can be found here.


Capturing special moments for 'The Heart & The Sea' with master surfboard maker Paul Joske. Photos by good mate Tom Woods, who has some epic work featured daily here.

Wisdom & Aloha

Here are some softly spoken words of wisdom & aloha shared by a graceful elder of the tribe, Mr. Gerry Lopez, from his recent Australian tour supported by the good folk at Patagonia.

Spindrift by Johnny Abegg

My mate Johnny is a talented human. When he's not shredding like this...
He's making beautiful shorts like this... Try watch.


Johnny Abegg, moon gazing, 'The Heart & The Sea.'
The moon is a loyal companion. It never leaves. It’s always there, watching, steadfast, knowing us in our light and dark moments, changing forever just as we do. Every day it’s a different version of itself. Sometimes weak and wan, sometimes strong and full of light. The moon understands what it means to be human. Uncertain. Alone. Cratered by imperfections. Tahereh Mafi.