Chris Del Moro, a ham sandwich moment from 'The Heart & The Sea.' "When Lance goes out at Malibu, he really gives the place a going over. He stays in just the perfect spot on the wave, which is right in front of the whitewater, in the breaking part of the wave called 'the curl'. The main object in surfing is to always remain in the curl, stay as close as possible to the whitewater without actually getting caught by it. All the manuvers in surfing, turning, stalling, trimming, riding the nose, are directed toward the ulimate aim of staying in the curl. Lance's real speciality is noseriding. A lot of surfers run up to the nose. A lot run up and right off the end. Lance usually stays around for awhile. He's so realaxed up there you get the feeling he could have a ham sandwich while he's waiting around." Bruce Brown, 'The Endless Summer', 1966.
Posted by Nathan Oldfield