The Inertia Interview

The Inertia just published an interview that I did with Tyler Breuer. Here's an excerpt:

TB: What do you mean by “surfing life?” What do you consider to be a surfing life? What do you think makes surfing a worthy pursuit?
NO: By a surfing life I mean a lifetime where surfing plays an integral part, where surfing is a lifelong engagement. For many of us, we don’t think about surfing as being a sport that we participate in everyday or a few times a week or twice a month or whatever. It’s a lifestyle, a way of being, a way of really engaging with the state of actually being alive. Surfing isn’t something we do, it’s who we are.
From an outsider’s perspective, looking in at surfing and surfers, I think there’s been this kind of history of incredulous disdain. They don’t understand what we do. All they can see is us going around in circles, catching waves in and paddling back out, sitting beyond the break for endless hours, watching clouds, sea-gazing, daydreaming. To them, surfing seems like child’s play, a waste of time, non-productive, useless, self-indulgent.
But a surfing life is full of rich gifts, even if it’s not how the world measures riches. I explored some of these ideas in my film “Seaworthy.” A surfing life can teach us to recognize the significance of beauty, the desire for wildness, a sense of belonging in the world, the value of pure simple joy. For me, these are the kinds of things that help give our lives shape and meaning. That’s what I mean when I say that a surfing life is a worthy pursuit.

If you'd like to read more, you can find it here. Thanks friends.


Groundswell (Trailer) from Patagonia on Vimeo.

At great environmental risk, and against the wishes of most British Columbian and aboriginal people, the Enbridge Northern Gateway project would pipe tar sands oil from Alberta to the coast of British Columbia for delivery to markets in Asia and California. Last fall, Raincoast Conservation Foundation Teamed up with filmmaker & Patagonia surf ambassador Chris Malloy to highlight all that’s at stake.

This beautiful film is available now for download here at I downloaded it last night and it is a pure and profound vision most worthy of your attention. All proceeds from the film are being donated to support the Raincoast Conservation Foundation. 

UK Premiere

UK Premiere of The Heart & The Sea, Saturday 2nd March. Ten percent of proceeds goes towards supporting the good work of Surfers Against Sewage. More details here. Advance tickets released through Chariots Of The Sun. If you live nearby, please tell your mates!

La Paloma

Wish I could have been at La Paloma tonight to share 'The Heart & The Sea' with some good friends in California. Instead I had a summer Saturday at the beach bodysurfing & playing with my kids. It was a good simple day, but I sure would like to finally visit California sometime soon. Thanks everyone who made it out to both shows at the theatre to take a look at The Heart & The Sea. And thanks to my Basque brother Mikel for this photo. Alaianess anaia!

La Paloma Premiere

Stoked & grateful that 'The Heart & The Sea' is premiering in one week's time at the iconic La Paloma Theatre, Encinitas, California. Tickets are just $5 at the Box Office, available at the Patagonia Cardiff Store or online at