The Inertia just published an interview that I did with Tyler Breuer. Here's an excerpt:
TB: What do you mean by “surfing life?” What do you consider to be a surfing life? What do you think makes surfing a worthy pursuit?
NO: By a surfing life I mean a lifetime where surfing plays an integral part, where surfing is a lifelong engagement. For many of us, we don’t think about surfing as being a sport that we participate in everyday or a few times a week or twice a month or whatever. It’s a lifestyle, a way of being, a way of really engaging with the state of actually being alive. Surfing isn’t something we do, it’s who we are.
From an outsider’s perspective, looking in at surfing and surfers, I think there’s been this kind of history of incredulous disdain. They don’t understand what we do. All they can see is us going around in circles, catching waves in and paddling back out, sitting beyond the break for endless hours, watching clouds, sea-gazing, daydreaming. To them, surfing seems like child’s play, a waste of time, non-productive, useless, self-indulgent.
But a surfing life is full of rich gifts, even if it’s not how the world measures riches. I explored some of these ideas in my film “Seaworthy.” A surfing life can teach us to recognize the significance of beauty, the desire for wildness, a sense of belonging in the world, the value of pure simple joy. For me, these are the kinds of things that help give our lives shape and meaning. That’s what I mean when I say that a surfing life is a worthy pursuit.
If you'd like to read more, you can find it here. Thanks friends.